Trellis Wine Group’s Adventures in Oz
Written By: Mark Crisler
In March 2009, Old Bridge Cellars invited a group of 15 employees, partners and guests to spend 11 days immersing ourselves in the wine culture of Australia. This was not a trip for amateurs or lightweights, as we traversed the whole country by airplane, bus and minivan, tasting wines and learning about the unique wine regions and wineries.
Over the past two decades, the wine industry as a whole has seen an increased consolidation of wineries and ‘big company’ buyouts, which has made it more and more difficult for the family-owned wineries to get noticed, and Australia is no exception.
Old Bridge Cellars is an importer of artisan Australian winemakers whose mission is to promote the country’s ‘real wines’, and to preserve their independence and regional heritage. Many of them are 2nd, 3rd, and even 4th generation winemakers whose philosophy is minimal intervention in the winery and respecting the land to create wines that remain true to the soil from which they come. This is our adventure…
Day 1
I arrived in Sydney early in the morning, excited to see a new country, and start what was sure to be an amazing trip. This was our only free day, giving us time to get acclimated to the time zone and see the city. Since coffee is so highly regarded in Australia, my first stop was an Illy cafe for some “real” coffee. Ok, I happen to be a coffee fanatic too…the espresso or short black as it’s called here, was awesome! Energized, I took a walk around the harbor to see the Opera House, the “Rocks” District and the Old Bridge. Soon after, I met up with the rest of my travel companions for a ferry ride across the harbor to Watson’s Bay for dinner at a fun seafood restaurant. It was the first of many meals and fine wines of the trip…as well as a few good Refresha’s (local beers).
Day 2
The first of many early morning wake-up calls, we headed north of Sydney to the Hunter Valley and Brokenwood Winery. The Hunter Valley has an impressive grape-growing history, with the first vineyards being planted in 1825. Now it’s a very popular wine region for serious aficionados and casual tourists alike. It’s also the new playground for the wealthy who want to start their own wineries.
Brokenwood is one of the original wineries of the Hunta (Hunter Valley). Iain Riggs, the Chief Winemaker and part owner, has helped transition this estate from a small, hobby winery into an international icon.
We were met by the winemaker, PJ, to get an overview of the winery (and thankfully we were greeted with a coffee). Above the tasting room, where we did our tastings, they have a full-time chef, who feeds all the employees gourmet meals, especially
during crush.
We went to see the Graveyard vineyard. It was named that because that plot of land was slated to be the local graveyard in the 1800’s, but that never happened and it found a more noble purpose by producing Shiraz grapes for one of Australia’s most iconic wines, the Graveyard Shiraz. We tasted through more than 15 wines. From their renowned older vintage Semillons, to Cabernet, Pinot Noir and finally a few vintages of the “Graveyard” Shiraz. Such amazing wines, so much tradition and heritage. After a brief break at our hotel, we came back for a seasonal dinner on the balcony and a game of risk, they call “Moriarty”. It’s a game where two players blind fold themselves, lay face down on a table toward each other and take swats at each other with a rolled up newspaper to score points. As it turns out this was a ruse to get the president of Old Bridge Cellars to participate, where he was duct taped to the table and bobbled by the crew. Ah…those Aussies.
Day 3
We headed back to Sydney to catch a morning plane to Adelaide, where we drove north to the Clare Valley to meet with Kilikanoon winery. With around 50 wineries producing less than 2% of the Australian grape crush, the Clare Valley remains boutique in stature and philosophy, despite having developed an envied reputation for producing mineral-driven, age-worthy Rieslings and Shiraz. We were greeted with gracious hospitality and down under sincerity. Handed a Kilikanoon Riesling, and a picnic lunch, we immersed ourselves in a tasting with the winemaker & vineyard owner, Kevin Mitchell. I thought the Rieslings were amazing, these cool climate Shiraz were so full of flavor and aromas, I couldn’t believe what I had tasted. They saved the best for last, as we drove to their 144 year old “Atunga”, Shiraz vineyard. WOW! I’ve not tasted a more complex, dense and flavorful Shiraz…lookout Grange.
From there we headed to the Barossa Valley. After a drive through the majestic tree lined roads, we ended up at Seppeltsfield winery, one of the oldest fortified wineries in Australia, with wines dating back to the mid 1800’s. We toured the winery, got a history lesson on the Barossa, had a refresha and made our way to the dining hall, where we met famed winemaker, John Duval. John is a fourth generation winemaker and one of the most highly regarded and recognized winemakers in the country. He worked for Penfolds for 28 years and was the Chief Winemaker and custodian of Australia’s most famous wine, Grange. We had a beautiful meal, prepared by a local chef, paired with John Duval’s new venture under his own name. We tasted and talked about his three red wines from the Barossa. Eligo, his flagship, small berry, low yielding, old vine Shiraz, YUM. Plexus, his Rhone blend of Shiraz, Grenache & Mourvèdre, AWESOME and Entity, an old vine Shiraz from the many sub-regions in the Barossa, KILLA! We talked, we laughed and enjoyed the company and humble grace of this Australian wine legend.
Day 4
We drove to the McLaren Vale to see d’Arenberg Winery. d’Arenberg turns individuality into an art form by doing a whole lot of little things differently. The original vineyards were established by Joseph Osborn in 1912. A century later, the estate has grown to 345 acres, run by the fourth-generation winemaker, Chester Osborn.
We arrive and are again greeted with smiles and coffee by the winemaking staff. Remember, it’s fall in Oz and in McLaren Vale, they are only half way through harvest. Chester took us on an exciting walk of the vineyards and 80 year old winery where we saw many of their old world techniques done in a modern way. For example: using 19th century basket presses (for both red and white wines) and foot treading.
We’re treated to a spectacular lunch in their restaurant, d’Arry’s, and a tasting of 20+ red wines. From their “Stump Jumps” to their “Red Stripes”, to the “Icons”, WOW after WOW. My favorites were the “Laughing Magpie” Shiraz (named after what Chester’s daughters called the Kookaburra’s), the “Custodian” Grenache (named after d’Arenberg being the keeper of nearly 1/3rd of all of McLaren Vale’s old Grenache bush vines) and a new wine still in the cellar, a co-fermented blend of Shiraz and Roussanne. Later we tried to use some of our new knowledge in a red blending competition. I came in second, losing respectably to the Master Sommelier from Texas.
After a brief stop at our hotel we went back up to Chester’s home for a casual dinner. To help us unwind from our lengthy travels and hectic pace, Chester met us with Champagne and masseuses, and a dip in his pool…a truly thoughtful host. Chester pulled out some incredible older vintage d’Arenberg’s, Champagnes and Alsatian wines. After a very enjoyable evening, the stragglers that didn’t head back to the hotel were treated to some classic rock, old red Burgundies and Rhone’s from his cellar.
Day 5
It’s day two at d’Arenberg…strange, no hangover. While our palates were still fresh (a winemaker theory) we went back to the lab for another tasting of 20 or so wines (at this point, who’s counting). This time it was white wines. From blends to Rhone’s to Chards to the Sticky’s (desert style). We gathered more history and stories of the wines and their wildly named wines. If you haven’t noticed, Australians love to “name” their wines. Some think it’s cheeky, but honestly, the names really mean something to these guys. Once done, Chester jumped into the van with us and guided us through the vineyards and a few of the wineries of McLaren Vale, ending with a walkabout in a hilltop vineyard with panoramic views of the valley, where we were met by the winemaking team with a gourmet lunch. Life of a winemaker is not all picking, crushing and fermenting; you know you’ve got to enjoy all of life’s pleasures. So, after a hot afternoon in the vineyards, we headed to the beach to take a dip in the Southern Ocean (ah…), played cricket on the beach and just relaxed. After a fun afternoon with some refreshas, we ended up at a local seafood restaurant to enjoy some local foods, taste some mystery wines that Chester brought and reminisce about our trip so far.
Day 6
Up early again (told you), still no hangover (must be the water) we drove toward the Coonawarra. But, what trip in Oz would be complete without a stop for flat whites, short blacks, meat pies and sausage rolls at a small town bakery? Hmmm.
We arrived at Penley Estate winery and met owner-winemaker Kym Tolley. Kym walked us through his winery to show us some of the unique things he does, like using a specially designed heading down cap in his fermentation tanks. It’s a wooden rack installed a third of the way down in the tank, so when the skins rise during fermentation they are stopped before getting to the top of the tank, allowing the juice to flow through the cap (skins). This reduces the need to “punch down” the skins into the wine, allowing for softer tannins and yet, still deep dark colors and flavors.
In the tasting room, we sampled all of his estate wines. I have to tell you, these wines are everything Coonawarra is famous for. Luscious, vibrant and clearly a reflection of Kym’s winemaking style and the regionality of the “terra rossa” soils of the area. Kym, a direct descendant of the pioneering Penfold and Tolley winemaking families, has over 25 years winemaking experience, including tutelage under Grange creator Max Schubert. Continuing a family tradition that spans five generations, Tolley established Penley in 1988 and is now regarded as one of the region’s leading producers. The name Penley is a combination of his family names, Penfolds & Tolley. We went to the Coonawarra’s old rail station to take pictures duplicating an iconic photo Kym took some 20 years before. Dressed up and posed as cowboys, we added to his collection of wannabies.
After a short rest, we met at the winery for some fun and games. First, was a grape stomping competition (think Lucy), and next a blending competition. Each of us had to make a wine that best represented the 5 vineyards and 4 varietals (Cabernet, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Malbec) from the estate. We were asked to make a label with a unique name to disguise our blend so Kym, our judge, wouldn’t know who made it. While Kym evaluated our concoctions in his lab, we hung out on in the barrel room, had some appetizers and wine before our first Aussie BBQ. At dinner, Kym talked about our blends and gave us his thoughts about the blending process and what he would look for in his wines. To my surprise, my blend “Twisted Fizzler” (no way he would know who’s that was) was announced the winner. To my delight, he’s making a magnum of my blend and sending it to me when it’s ready. If you must know, it was 70%estate Cab, 15% Cab Franc, 8% Malbec and 7% Shiraz.
Day 7
It’s Sunday and time to head to another wine region. We drove to a nearby airport where we chartered a plane to take us to Melbourne. A couple of nice young men (20 & 23, I think) checked us in, tagged our bags and neatly packed our luggage into the plane. Feeling a bit tired but, strangely refreshed, we all climbed into the plane, got into our seats and after a few minutes realized those ‘nice boys’ were our pilots. One person joked that the ‘boys were in the cockpit trying to figure out how to keep their dad from finding out they took his plane’. Hilarious! At this point the phrase “no worries” made sense. We laughed and nodded off. After an easy flight to Melbourne we drove through some breathtaking landscapes on our way to the Heathcote region of Central Victoria, and Jasper Hill winery. Founded in 1975, Ron and Elva Laughton are one of the first to make wine in this region. It’s said, although he politely denies it, that they actually made the region famous. They produce some of Australia’s most unique and compelling Shiraz on their 60 acre property. It’s comprised of three vineyards, two of which are named after Ron and Elva’s daughters, Emily and Georgia. It is the Laughton’s commitment to low yields, dry farming and non-interventionist, biodynamic viticultural practices that place Jasper Hill among Australia’s premier producers.
We arrived at their family home for a brief history, some noshes and their Riesling. We tasted their award winning biodynamic Shiraz while overlooking Emily’s vineyard and enjoying a wonderful lunch, prepared and cooked by his daughter, Emily, who is also the winemaker, and her husband a local chef. After lunch we went to the winery to help punch down some Shiraz and see how they really run a non-interventionist winery.
Full and happy, we drove to the Yarra Valley to meet the team of Balgownie Estate at their Resort, also called Balgownie, for a vertical tasting of their estate wines. They combined that with a nine course tasting menu that Thomas Keller would be proud of. Admittedly we were all tired from the amazing day, but soon rallied to get the full picture of Balgownie’s iconic place as one of Bendigo’s grandest producers.
Day 8
We had plans for an early morning bi-plane ride, but the weather didn’t cooperate. We drove (we do that a lot) to the town of Yarra and Giant Steps & Innocent Bystander winery. Phil Sexton, owner, has managed to merge a state of the art, gravity flow, winery with a cheese making facility, artisan bakery, coffeehouse and a restaurant all in an urban setting. What a cool place! A blend of modern steel and glass architecture combined with warm woods and natural materials. Phil has taken a very modern approach to gravity flow by designing special fermentation bins that line the upper portion of the winery. He has fully insulated the building and winery by using foam between two thick layers of concrete, giving the same effect of a cave in a mountainside. They hold tastings and tours all with the notion that if you understand that wine is meant to be made seriously, but without all the pretention and exclusivity, then you have created an atmosphere where it is comfortable to drink wines and enjoy the fruits of land and labor. We went to the lab (always a good place to taste) to sample the wines with Phil. The Yarra is famous for its really cool climate and therefore exceptional Chardonnays, Pinot’s and Pinot Gris, but also some very vibrant Shiraz. We departed the winery to see Phil’s “Sexton” vineyard and to see some of the devastation of the fires. They actually came up to his home and estate vineyards. He and his teenage son fought the fires on the road alongside the firefighters, using his reservoir water. From there we were off to the Melbourne airport to fly across the country to Perth. Upon arrival we jumped on a bus and drove to the coastal town of Freemantle, where we checked in, had casual dinner at the Phil’s Little Creatures’ brewpub and wandered the town in search of gelato.
Day 9
It’s St. Patrick’s Day! Up early (knew it wouldn’t last) for a trip to the Leeuwin Estate in the Margaret River. Leeuwin has a strong connection to California. After an extensive search in 1972 to identify the most suitable Australian area for planting of premium wines, Robert Mondavi singled land in the Margaret River region. At the time a cattle farm, Leeuwin Estate evolved under the direction of owners Denis and Tricia Horgan, with Mr. Mondavi acting as a consultant and mentor. The Estate was thrust into the international spotlight when Decanter magazine awarded their highest recommendation to the 1980 Art Series Chardonnay.
We arrived as they were picking some of their Shiraz on the estate and had a brief chat with the vineyard manager before heading over to the winery. What an amazing site, beautiful grounds surrounded by tall trees, a warm and elegant structure housing the winery, tasting room, art gallery (filled with contemporary Australian artists whose work garnishes the labels of their Art Series wines) and a fantastic restaurant. We met Denis & Tricia for a brief tour of the winery and an extensive tasting with winemaker, Paul Atwood…another WOW moment. If you are fan of White Burgundy’s, then these Chardonnays will make you swear you are in Beaune. After that experience, we continued on the veranda for a lunch with the Horgan’s, Paul and the team. Later we were invited to the Horgan’s home for a BBQ. What dynamic and gracious couple.
Day 10
A short ride and we’re at Cullen Winery, also in the Margaret River. Established in 1971 by winemakers Kevin and Diana Cullen, they redefined the style of Australian Cabernet Sauvignon. Their biodynamically farmed vineyards produce elegant, age-worthy wines; including what is regarded by many as the country’s definitive Bordeaux blend…Diana Madeline. What a place, low key and unpretentious. We met Vanya, the daughter and leader of the winery. She walked us through her family winery, their organic garden and of course their biodynamic vineyards. I was particularly impressed with how natural and healthy the vines looked. Strong trunks, good leaf structure and vibrant fruit. Vanya really broke down Biodynamic farming for us. It allows the natural elements of the soil, vine, sun and environment work together to create this harmonious ecosystem. They literally have eliminated the need for pesticides, weed killers, sulfites and any other man-made products to treat the vines or enhance the grapes.
We settled down for a tasting of their wines and a vertical Diana Madeline Cabernet. Unbelievably, you can really taste the structure and the balance that the biodynamic vines bring to the fruit and the wine. We were graciously treated to a beautiful organic lunch, and were serenaded by a local opera troupe and enjoyed our 10th day in Oz.
Back on the bus, this time to Albany, one of the original whaling ports in Australia, for a relaxing evening BBQ with our new hosts, Plantagenet Wines.
From Albany, we drove to Mt. Barker where our first stop was with Plantagenet founder, Tony Smith; at his original winery and estate vineyard, Bouverie. Tony also has a fresh water shrimp farm, so it was a natural for lunch, along with some truly spectacular early Bouverie wines from 1970’s and 1980’s. Later we went to one of Plantagenet vineyard’s “Rocky Horror” (No, not the movie). Rocky Horror refers to the hard rocky soil and the horror of trying to till it to plant the vines. We hung out with the vineyard manager then headed for Plantagenet winery for a tasting with winemaker John Durham. We tasted all of his wines and I discovered how complex these wines really were. The Semillion/Sauv Blanc was incredible. The Estate Wines were also amazing. John was great, guiding us through the wines and familiarizing us with the Great Southern region.
Day 11
After the tasting we got back on our bus for a five hour drive to Perth. We reflected on all we had seen, our new friends and the experiences we had. Not to leave on an empty stomach, we were treated to one last amazing dinner at the Matilda Bay Restaurant. Next, Perth airport for a midnight flight to Sydney, and then home to the US. No wine, no refreshers, just water, café and sleep. You know what they say “you can sleep on your way home”.
We were told by many we met that we were experiencing more wine regions than most winemakers do, and we definitely saw more of the country than most Australians do in a lifetime. I now have such a different view of Australia and Australian wines. There is so much more to the country’s wine culture than we are led to believe.
Artisans, families, entrepreneurs, generations of winemakers are all working hard on their plots of land to give us the best their soil and climate can offer.
As a final thought, all of the iconic wineries in Australia like Penfolds, Rosemount, Lindeman’s and Wynn’s, all started out as families with a dream, a plot of land, and a vision. They worked hard, perfected their art and became icons of their regions and the wines they made. Most have gone on to become major brands, sourcing from all regions in order to supply the world market. They have had a strong influence on how American consumers perceive the Australian wine industry.
But it’s not just one big appellation, and there is so much more to Australia than mass produced Shiraz. Several years ago I recognized that wine lists at many restaurants had become homogenized, and that the consumers were being offered many of the same wines wherever they went. As the founder of Trellis Wine Group, it is my personal mission to help preserve the family held winery and to help them to be recognized amid the “Big Brands”. It’s my goal to introduce national restaurant & hotel companies to these dynamic artisan wines and winemakers, to help restaurants differentiate their wine lists from their competitors and to give consumers the opportunity to discover new wines. I’m dedicated to making a difference by preserving the family-owned, artisan winery. If we lose them, we will lose the heart and soul of wine.
Mark Crisler is the Founder & CEO
of Trellis Wine Group.
www.trelliswinegroup.com
In March 2009, Old Bridge Cellars invited a group of 15 employees, partners and guests to spend 11 days immersing ourselves in the wine culture of Australia. This was not a trip for amateurs or lightweights, as we traversed the whole country by airplane, bus and minivan, tasting wines and learning about the unique wine regions and wineries.
Over the past two decades, the wine industry as a whole has seen an increased consolidation of wineries and ‘big company’ buyouts, which has made it more and more difficult for the family-owned wineries to get noticed, and Australia is no exception.
Old Bridge Cellars is an importer of artisan Australian winemakers whose mission is to promote the country’s ‘real wines’, and to preserve their independence and regional heritage. Many of them are 2nd, 3rd, and even 4th generation winemakers whose philosophy is minimal intervention in the winery and respecting the land to create wines that remain true to the soil from which they come. This is our adventure…
Day 1
I arrived in Sydney early in the morning, excited to see a new country, and start what was sure to be an amazing trip. This was our only free day, giving us time to get acclimated to the time zone and see the city. Since coffee is so highly regarded in Australia, my first stop was an Illy cafe for some “real” coffee. Ok, I happen to be a coffee fanatic too…the espresso or short black as it’s called here, was awesome! Energized, I took a walk around the harbor to see the Opera House, the “Rocks” District and the Old Bridge. Soon after, I met up with the rest of my travel companions for a ferry ride across the harbor to Watson’s Bay for dinner at a fun seafood restaurant. It was the first of many meals and fine wines of the trip…as well as a few good Refresha’s (local beers).
Day 2
The first of many early morning wake-up calls, we headed north of Sydney to the Hunter Valley and Brokenwood Winery. The Hunter Valley has an impressive grape-growing history, with the first vineyards being planted in 1825. Now it’s a very popular wine region for serious aficionados and casual tourists alike. It’s also the new playground for the wealthy who want to start their own wineries.
Brokenwood is one of the original wineries of the Hunta (Hunter Valley). Iain Riggs, the Chief Winemaker and part owner, has helped transition this estate from a small, hobby winery into an international icon.
We were met by the winemaker, PJ, to get an overview of the winery (and thankfully we were greeted with a coffee). Above the tasting room, where we did our tastings, they have a full-time chef, who feeds all the employees gourmet meals, especially
during crush.
We went to see the Graveyard vineyard. It was named that because that plot of land was slated to be the local graveyard in the 1800’s, but that never happened and it found a more noble purpose by producing Shiraz grapes for one of Australia’s most iconic wines, the Graveyard Shiraz. We tasted through more than 15 wines. From their renowned older vintage Semillons, to Cabernet, Pinot Noir and finally a few vintages of the “Graveyard” Shiraz. Such amazing wines, so much tradition and heritage. After a brief break at our hotel, we came back for a seasonal dinner on the balcony and a game of risk, they call “Moriarty”. It’s a game where two players blind fold themselves, lay face down on a table toward each other and take swats at each other with a rolled up newspaper to score points. As it turns out this was a ruse to get the president of Old Bridge Cellars to participate, where he was duct taped to the table and bobbled by the crew. Ah…those Aussies.
Day 3
We headed back to Sydney to catch a morning plane to Adelaide, where we drove north to the Clare Valley to meet with Kilikanoon winery. With around 50 wineries producing less than 2% of the Australian grape crush, the Clare Valley remains boutique in stature and philosophy, despite having developed an envied reputation for producing mineral-driven, age-worthy Rieslings and Shiraz. We were greeted with gracious hospitality and down under sincerity. Handed a Kilikanoon Riesling, and a picnic lunch, we immersed ourselves in a tasting with the winemaker & vineyard owner, Kevin Mitchell. I thought the Rieslings were amazing, these cool climate Shiraz were so full of flavor and aromas, I couldn’t believe what I had tasted. They saved the best for last, as we drove to their 144 year old “Atunga”, Shiraz vineyard. WOW! I’ve not tasted a more complex, dense and flavorful Shiraz…lookout Grange.
From there we headed to the Barossa Valley. After a drive through the majestic tree lined roads, we ended up at Seppeltsfield winery, one of the oldest fortified wineries in Australia, with wines dating back to the mid 1800’s. We toured the winery, got a history lesson on the Barossa, had a refresha and made our way to the dining hall, where we met famed winemaker, John Duval. John is a fourth generation winemaker and one of the most highly regarded and recognized winemakers in the country. He worked for Penfolds for 28 years and was the Chief Winemaker and custodian of Australia’s most famous wine, Grange. We had a beautiful meal, prepared by a local chef, paired with John Duval’s new venture under his own name. We tasted and talked about his three red wines from the Barossa. Eligo, his flagship, small berry, low yielding, old vine Shiraz, YUM. Plexus, his Rhone blend of Shiraz, Grenache & Mourvèdre, AWESOME and Entity, an old vine Shiraz from the many sub-regions in the Barossa, KILLA! We talked, we laughed and enjoyed the company and humble grace of this Australian wine legend.
Day 4
We drove to the McLaren Vale to see d’Arenberg Winery. d’Arenberg turns individuality into an art form by doing a whole lot of little things differently. The original vineyards were established by Joseph Osborn in 1912. A century later, the estate has grown to 345 acres, run by the fourth-generation winemaker, Chester Osborn.
We arrive and are again greeted with smiles and coffee by the winemaking staff. Remember, it’s fall in Oz and in McLaren Vale, they are only half way through harvest. Chester took us on an exciting walk of the vineyards and 80 year old winery where we saw many of their old world techniques done in a modern way. For example: using 19th century basket presses (for both red and white wines) and foot treading.
We’re treated to a spectacular lunch in their restaurant, d’Arry’s, and a tasting of 20+ red wines. From their “Stump Jumps” to their “Red Stripes”, to the “Icons”, WOW after WOW. My favorites were the “Laughing Magpie” Shiraz (named after what Chester’s daughters called the Kookaburra’s), the “Custodian” Grenache (named after d’Arenberg being the keeper of nearly 1/3rd of all of McLaren Vale’s old Grenache bush vines) and a new wine still in the cellar, a co-fermented blend of Shiraz and Roussanne. Later we tried to use some of our new knowledge in a red blending competition. I came in second, losing respectably to the Master Sommelier from Texas.
After a brief stop at our hotel we went back up to Chester’s home for a casual dinner. To help us unwind from our lengthy travels and hectic pace, Chester met us with Champagne and masseuses, and a dip in his pool…a truly thoughtful host. Chester pulled out some incredible older vintage d’Arenberg’s, Champagnes and Alsatian wines. After a very enjoyable evening, the stragglers that didn’t head back to the hotel were treated to some classic rock, old red Burgundies and Rhone’s from his cellar.
Day 5
It’s day two at d’Arenberg…strange, no hangover. While our palates were still fresh (a winemaker theory) we went back to the lab for another tasting of 20 or so wines (at this point, who’s counting). This time it was white wines. From blends to Rhone’s to Chards to the Sticky’s (desert style). We gathered more history and stories of the wines and their wildly named wines. If you haven’t noticed, Australians love to “name” their wines. Some think it’s cheeky, but honestly, the names really mean something to these guys. Once done, Chester jumped into the van with us and guided us through the vineyards and a few of the wineries of McLaren Vale, ending with a walkabout in a hilltop vineyard with panoramic views of the valley, where we were met by the winemaking team with a gourmet lunch. Life of a winemaker is not all picking, crushing and fermenting; you know you’ve got to enjoy all of life’s pleasures. So, after a hot afternoon in the vineyards, we headed to the beach to take a dip in the Southern Ocean (ah…), played cricket on the beach and just relaxed. After a fun afternoon with some refreshas, we ended up at a local seafood restaurant to enjoy some local foods, taste some mystery wines that Chester brought and reminisce about our trip so far.
Day 6
Up early again (told you), still no hangover (must be the water) we drove toward the Coonawarra. But, what trip in Oz would be complete without a stop for flat whites, short blacks, meat pies and sausage rolls at a small town bakery? Hmmm.
We arrived at Penley Estate winery and met owner-winemaker Kym Tolley. Kym walked us through his winery to show us some of the unique things he does, like using a specially designed heading down cap in his fermentation tanks. It’s a wooden rack installed a third of the way down in the tank, so when the skins rise during fermentation they are stopped before getting to the top of the tank, allowing the juice to flow through the cap (skins). This reduces the need to “punch down” the skins into the wine, allowing for softer tannins and yet, still deep dark colors and flavors.
In the tasting room, we sampled all of his estate wines. I have to tell you, these wines are everything Coonawarra is famous for. Luscious, vibrant and clearly a reflection of Kym’s winemaking style and the regionality of the “terra rossa” soils of the area. Kym, a direct descendant of the pioneering Penfold and Tolley winemaking families, has over 25 years winemaking experience, including tutelage under Grange creator Max Schubert. Continuing a family tradition that spans five generations, Tolley established Penley in 1988 and is now regarded as one of the region’s leading producers. The name Penley is a combination of his family names, Penfolds & Tolley. We went to the Coonawarra’s old rail station to take pictures duplicating an iconic photo Kym took some 20 years before. Dressed up and posed as cowboys, we added to his collection of wannabies.
After a short rest, we met at the winery for some fun and games. First, was a grape stomping competition (think Lucy), and next a blending competition. Each of us had to make a wine that best represented the 5 vineyards and 4 varietals (Cabernet, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Malbec) from the estate. We were asked to make a label with a unique name to disguise our blend so Kym, our judge, wouldn’t know who made it. While Kym evaluated our concoctions in his lab, we hung out on in the barrel room, had some appetizers and wine before our first Aussie BBQ. At dinner, Kym talked about our blends and gave us his thoughts about the blending process and what he would look for in his wines. To my surprise, my blend “Twisted Fizzler” (no way he would know who’s that was) was announced the winner. To my delight, he’s making a magnum of my blend and sending it to me when it’s ready. If you must know, it was 70%estate Cab, 15% Cab Franc, 8% Malbec and 7% Shiraz.
Day 7
It’s Sunday and time to head to another wine region. We drove to a nearby airport where we chartered a plane to take us to Melbourne. A couple of nice young men (20 & 23, I think) checked us in, tagged our bags and neatly packed our luggage into the plane. Feeling a bit tired but, strangely refreshed, we all climbed into the plane, got into our seats and after a few minutes realized those ‘nice boys’ were our pilots. One person joked that the ‘boys were in the cockpit trying to figure out how to keep their dad from finding out they took his plane’. Hilarious! At this point the phrase “no worries” made sense. We laughed and nodded off. After an easy flight to Melbourne we drove through some breathtaking landscapes on our way to the Heathcote region of Central Victoria, and Jasper Hill winery. Founded in 1975, Ron and Elva Laughton are one of the first to make wine in this region. It’s said, although he politely denies it, that they actually made the region famous. They produce some of Australia’s most unique and compelling Shiraz on their 60 acre property. It’s comprised of three vineyards, two of which are named after Ron and Elva’s daughters, Emily and Georgia. It is the Laughton’s commitment to low yields, dry farming and non-interventionist, biodynamic viticultural practices that place Jasper Hill among Australia’s premier producers.
We arrived at their family home for a brief history, some noshes and their Riesling. We tasted their award winning biodynamic Shiraz while overlooking Emily’s vineyard and enjoying a wonderful lunch, prepared and cooked by his daughter, Emily, who is also the winemaker, and her husband a local chef. After lunch we went to the winery to help punch down some Shiraz and see how they really run a non-interventionist winery.
Full and happy, we drove to the Yarra Valley to meet the team of Balgownie Estate at their Resort, also called Balgownie, for a vertical tasting of their estate wines. They combined that with a nine course tasting menu that Thomas Keller would be proud of. Admittedly we were all tired from the amazing day, but soon rallied to get the full picture of Balgownie’s iconic place as one of Bendigo’s grandest producers.
Day 8
We had plans for an early morning bi-plane ride, but the weather didn’t cooperate. We drove (we do that a lot) to the town of Yarra and Giant Steps & Innocent Bystander winery. Phil Sexton, owner, has managed to merge a state of the art, gravity flow, winery with a cheese making facility, artisan bakery, coffeehouse and a restaurant all in an urban setting. What a cool place! A blend of modern steel and glass architecture combined with warm woods and natural materials. Phil has taken a very modern approach to gravity flow by designing special fermentation bins that line the upper portion of the winery. He has fully insulated the building and winery by using foam between two thick layers of concrete, giving the same effect of a cave in a mountainside. They hold tastings and tours all with the notion that if you understand that wine is meant to be made seriously, but without all the pretention and exclusivity, then you have created an atmosphere where it is comfortable to drink wines and enjoy the fruits of land and labor. We went to the lab (always a good place to taste) to sample the wines with Phil. The Yarra is famous for its really cool climate and therefore exceptional Chardonnays, Pinot’s and Pinot Gris, but also some very vibrant Shiraz. We departed the winery to see Phil’s “Sexton” vineyard and to see some of the devastation of the fires. They actually came up to his home and estate vineyards. He and his teenage son fought the fires on the road alongside the firefighters, using his reservoir water. From there we were off to the Melbourne airport to fly across the country to Perth. Upon arrival we jumped on a bus and drove to the coastal town of Freemantle, where we checked in, had casual dinner at the Phil’s Little Creatures’ brewpub and wandered the town in search of gelato.
Day 9
It’s St. Patrick’s Day! Up early (knew it wouldn’t last) for a trip to the Leeuwin Estate in the Margaret River. Leeuwin has a strong connection to California. After an extensive search in 1972 to identify the most suitable Australian area for planting of premium wines, Robert Mondavi singled land in the Margaret River region. At the time a cattle farm, Leeuwin Estate evolved under the direction of owners Denis and Tricia Horgan, with Mr. Mondavi acting as a consultant and mentor. The Estate was thrust into the international spotlight when Decanter magazine awarded their highest recommendation to the 1980 Art Series Chardonnay.
We arrived as they were picking some of their Shiraz on the estate and had a brief chat with the vineyard manager before heading over to the winery. What an amazing site, beautiful grounds surrounded by tall trees, a warm and elegant structure housing the winery, tasting room, art gallery (filled with contemporary Australian artists whose work garnishes the labels of their Art Series wines) and a fantastic restaurant. We met Denis & Tricia for a brief tour of the winery and an extensive tasting with winemaker, Paul Atwood…another WOW moment. If you are fan of White Burgundy’s, then these Chardonnays will make you swear you are in Beaune. After that experience, we continued on the veranda for a lunch with the Horgan’s, Paul and the team. Later we were invited to the Horgan’s home for a BBQ. What dynamic and gracious couple.
Day 10
A short ride and we’re at Cullen Winery, also in the Margaret River. Established in 1971 by winemakers Kevin and Diana Cullen, they redefined the style of Australian Cabernet Sauvignon. Their biodynamically farmed vineyards produce elegant, age-worthy wines; including what is regarded by many as the country’s definitive Bordeaux blend…Diana Madeline. What a place, low key and unpretentious. We met Vanya, the daughter and leader of the winery. She walked us through her family winery, their organic garden and of course their biodynamic vineyards. I was particularly impressed with how natural and healthy the vines looked. Strong trunks, good leaf structure and vibrant fruit. Vanya really broke down Biodynamic farming for us. It allows the natural elements of the soil, vine, sun and environment work together to create this harmonious ecosystem. They literally have eliminated the need for pesticides, weed killers, sulfites and any other man-made products to treat the vines or enhance the grapes.
We settled down for a tasting of their wines and a vertical Diana Madeline Cabernet. Unbelievably, you can really taste the structure and the balance that the biodynamic vines bring to the fruit and the wine. We were graciously treated to a beautiful organic lunch, and were serenaded by a local opera troupe and enjoyed our 10th day in Oz.
Back on the bus, this time to Albany, one of the original whaling ports in Australia, for a relaxing evening BBQ with our new hosts, Plantagenet Wines.
From Albany, we drove to Mt. Barker where our first stop was with Plantagenet founder, Tony Smith; at his original winery and estate vineyard, Bouverie. Tony also has a fresh water shrimp farm, so it was a natural for lunch, along with some truly spectacular early Bouverie wines from 1970’s and 1980’s. Later we went to one of Plantagenet vineyard’s “Rocky Horror” (No, not the movie). Rocky Horror refers to the hard rocky soil and the horror of trying to till it to plant the vines. We hung out with the vineyard manager then headed for Plantagenet winery for a tasting with winemaker John Durham. We tasted all of his wines and I discovered how complex these wines really were. The Semillion/Sauv Blanc was incredible. The Estate Wines were also amazing. John was great, guiding us through the wines and familiarizing us with the Great Southern region.
Day 11
After the tasting we got back on our bus for a five hour drive to Perth. We reflected on all we had seen, our new friends and the experiences we had. Not to leave on an empty stomach, we were treated to one last amazing dinner at the Matilda Bay Restaurant. Next, Perth airport for a midnight flight to Sydney, and then home to the US. No wine, no refreshers, just water, café and sleep. You know what they say “you can sleep on your way home”.
We were told by many we met that we were experiencing more wine regions than most winemakers do, and we definitely saw more of the country than most Australians do in a lifetime. I now have such a different view of Australia and Australian wines. There is so much more to the country’s wine culture than we are led to believe.
Artisans, families, entrepreneurs, generations of winemakers are all working hard on their plots of land to give us the best their soil and climate can offer.
As a final thought, all of the iconic wineries in Australia like Penfolds, Rosemount, Lindeman’s and Wynn’s, all started out as families with a dream, a plot of land, and a vision. They worked hard, perfected their art and became icons of their regions and the wines they made. Most have gone on to become major brands, sourcing from all regions in order to supply the world market. They have had a strong influence on how American consumers perceive the Australian wine industry.
But it’s not just one big appellation, and there is so much more to Australia than mass produced Shiraz. Several years ago I recognized that wine lists at many restaurants had become homogenized, and that the consumers were being offered many of the same wines wherever they went. As the founder of Trellis Wine Group, it is my personal mission to help preserve the family held winery and to help them to be recognized amid the “Big Brands”. It’s my goal to introduce national restaurant & hotel companies to these dynamic artisan wines and winemakers, to help restaurants differentiate their wine lists from their competitors and to give consumers the opportunity to discover new wines. I’m dedicated to making a difference by preserving the family-owned, artisan winery. If we lose them, we will lose the heart and soul of wine.
Mark Crisler is the Founder & CEO
of Trellis Wine Group.
www.trelliswinegroup.com
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